Jaunas receptes

Santafē labākie zaļās Čīles siera burgeri

Santafē labākie zaļās Čīles siera burgeri

GCCB pie Berta. Visas Džuljetas Vaitas fotogrāfijas.

Kritiens Ņūmeksikā nozīmē vienu: zaļās Čīles sezonu. Visā štatā pārtikas preču veikalu autostāvvietas ir piepildītas ar mucas formas grauzdētājiem, kas virs atklātas liesmas klīst zaļā krāsā. Vietējie iedzīvotāji cenšas uzkrāt savu krātuvi, jo, runājot par valsts dārzeņu, jaunie meksikāņi ir krājēji. Un, lai gan zaļo Čīli uzsitīsim uz visu, kas ēdams no attāluma, klasiska kombinācija ir zaļās Čīles siera burgers - saīsināti no GCCB. Šo kombināciju atradīsit gandrīz visur, kur tiek pasniegti burgeri. Šeit ir daži no Santa Fe spilgtākajiem notikumiem.

Berta burgera bļoda: budžetam draudzīgs oriģināls

“Viena vieta visā pasaulē” lepojas ar zīmi Bert's Burger Bowl, Santa Fe piebraucamā vietā, kas darbojas kopš 1954. gada. Bert's ir viens no agrākajiem GCCB piegādātājiem, un tā darbinieki lepojas ar burgeriem. Pareiza GCCB atdzesēšana prasa divpadsmit minūtes - nav izņēmumu. Gala rezultāts ir slaids pīrādziņš, kas pārklāts ar amerikāņu sieru, kā arī standarta sīpolu, salātu, tomātu, sinepju un marinētu gurķu piedevas. Atkausēšanas process piešķir gaļai spēcīgu, dūmu aromātu, bet siltuma līmenis svārstās atkarībā no partijas. Kopumā Bertas zaļā Čīles mērce mēdz būt maldinoša, ar lēnu uzbūvi, kas prasa brīdi, lai panāktu jūsu garšas kārpiņas.

Siltuma indekss: 6/10 (karstākajai Čīlei, ar kādu esmu saskārusies, lai gan bieži mērce ir maigāka).
Atrašanās vieta: 235 N. Gvadalupes Sv.

Santafē kodums: standarts

Šī ir GCCB, pret kuru tiek mērīti visi pārējie. Džons un Bonija Ekri iepriekš savu burvību strādāja slavenajā Bobcat Bite, kas kopš tā laika ir slēgta. Par laimi, viņi atveda savu recepti Santa Fe Bite un turpina gatavot pus collu biezus burgerus, kas sastāv no 10 oz maltas patronas un filejas. Zaļie čili, nevis mērce, tiek sagriezti šķēlītēs un pēc tam slāņoti virs burgera ar Šveices sieru, lai atdzesētu siltumu. Kā šī burgera auguma zīme tas ierodas kopā ar savu svītu ar papriku pagatavotu, mājās gatavotu tējkannu čipsu veidā!

Siltuma indekss: 4/10
Atrašanās vieta: 311 Vecā Santafē taka (Santafē Bite ir pievienota Gareta tuksneša viesnīcai).

El Parasol: GCCB iet

Lai gan meksikāņu restorāns, iespējams, nešķiet acīmredzama vieta neaizmirstamam burgerim, El Parasol piedāvā lielisku GCCB, kas sūta gaļas sulu gar pirkstiem. Pīrādziņš ir nedaudz mazāks nekā Realburger un Santa Fe Bite, taču zaļā čili mērce neiznīcina gaļas garšu. Netālu no Santa Fe ir vairākas El Parasol vietas, taču centrālā vieta Cerrillos Road ir tikai izbraukšanas vieta.
Padoms: ja El Parasol laikā pasūtāt kaut ko citu, izņemot GCCB un tam ir pievienota ugunsdzēsēju mašīnas sarkanā mērce, piesakieties piesardzīgi.

Siltuma indekss: 6/10
Atrašanās vieta: 1833 Cerrillos Road

Del Charro salons: vēlā nakts burgers

Dodieties atpakaļ uz Del Šarro plašo segto iekšpagalmu, kurā ir apvienoti veco rietumu pieskārieni (bāra krēsli ar metāla bifeļiem) un tradicionālie Santa Fean (iespējams, lielākais āra kiva pilsētā). Del Charro ir pietiekami mājīgs randiņam, bet pietiekami mierīgs, lai pavadītu laiku kopā ar draugiem, un tā ir viena no retajām pusdienu iespējām pilsētā. GCCB atrodas maigākajā siltuma spektra galā un savieno pārī sasmalcinātus zaļos čili ar Čedaras sieru. Sulīgajam pīrādziņam piemīt patīkams kūpums, un to papildina izdilis kartupeļi. Šajā laistīšanas bedrē ir arī pienācīga alkoholisko dzērienu izvēle (baltā sangrija, alus, margaritas).

Siltuma indekss: 3/10
Atrašanās vieta: W. Alameda ielā 101

Realburger: Scorcher

Jūs neejat uz Realburger atmosfēras dēļ, bet dodaties uz izaicinājumu. GCCB ir karstākais šajā sarakstā, un, tā kā tas ir pilnībā pielāgojams, jūs varat vēl vairāk palielināties, izvēloties piparu džeku sieru. Šī dūšīgā burgera čili šķiet sasmalcināti - kompromiss starp diviem visizplatītākajiem formātiem (šķēles vai mērce). Karstums strauji pieaug, un ir grūti nobaudīt daudz vairāk par uguni. Siltums saglabājas uz jūsu tirpšanas lūpām, līdz esat pārliecināts, ka tie atgādina kolagēna reklāmas pēcfotogrāfiju!
Padoms: Lai gan maltītes piedāvājums ir lētāks, izlaidiet kartupeļus par labu gvakamolei (arī pikantajai) un svaigām tortiljas čipsiem.

Siltuma indekss: 8/10 (Saglabājiet antacīdus gaidīšanas režīmā!)
Atrašanās vieta: 2641½ Cerrillos Road (Realburger atrodas atpakaļ no Cerrillos un faktiski atrodas tuvāk Maez Road.)

Santa Fe nav iespējams attēlot katru lielisko GCCB, un, apvienojot zaļo čili ar kvalitatīvu gaļu, ir grūti kļūdīties. Šie pieci burgeri ir mani personīgie izcilnieki. Izpētot šo paraksta jauno meksikāņu ēdienu, neaizmirstiet paturēt glāzi piena gatavībā, jo Zozobras liesmās nav nekas uz GCCB.

"Santafē labākie zaļās Čīles siera burgeri" sākotnēji tika publicēti The Menuism Dining Blog.


Zaļā Čīles siera burgers: karstākais ceļmalas ēdiens ASV

2009. gada jūlijā, praktiski vienas nakts laikā, Zaļās Čīles siera burgers kļuva par nacionālo gardēžu apsēstību Amerikā. Tas ir mēnesis, kad Pārtikas tīklā tika demonstrēts Bobija Fleja mačo-burgeru izaicinājums Buckhorn krodziņam Sanantonio, N.M. Patiesību sakot, Flejam Austrumu piekrastes muca bija sakultas vietējā Ņūmeksikas burgeru meistara Bobija Olguina. Bet patiesais uzvarētājs bija pats Zaļās Čīles siera burgers, kas pēkšņi visā valstī ieguva gandrīz mītiskus apmērus kā kovboju dievu rodeo ēdiens.

GCCB - kas faktiski radās Amerikas dienvidrietumos pagājušā gadsimta piecdesmitajos gados, bet gadu desmitiem atradās pie nacionālā ēdiena radara - radās tāpat kā Amerikas ceļš un kā amerikāņu ceļa ēdiens, iegūstot jaunu nozīmi. Hamburgera locītavas visur meklēja jaunus veidus, kā pievilināt nesen kaltos autobraucējus, un dienvidrietumu stratēģija bija loģiska. Ņūmeksika ar izcilajiem Hatch chiles ir ASV zaļā Čīles galvaspilsēta - tad kāpēc kādam uzņēmīgam kafejnīcas īpašniekam nevajadzētu mest dažas zaļās paprikas uz siera burgera? Neviens nezina, kurš tieši to izdarīja pirmais, bet jums ir dažādi GCCB vēsturnieki, kas debatē par Burt's Burger Bowl Santafē, par Bobcat Bite netālu no Santa Fe, par Bleika Lotaburger sākotnējo atrašanās vietu Albukerkē un, protams, par Buckhorn Tavern. Sanantonio.

Par manu naudu labākais no visiem ir atrodams praktiski nezināmā niršanas kafejnīcā tieši Santafē: Horseman's Haven Café. Tas neparādās nacionālajos ziņu stāstos, tāpat kā citi, ko es to atradu, tikai runājot ar vietējiem ēdājiem, un pārliecinot viņus, ka neesmu pārāk snobis, lai mīlētu šo vietu.

Es nebiju un daru. Man jātnieka kafejnīca Horseman izvairās no "problēmām", kas nomoka tagad īpaši slaveno Zaļā Čīles siera burgera pasauli.

Pirmkārt, ēdiens ir sava veida mārketinga sajūta. Ja gadu desmitiem savā ēdnīcā ēdāt siera burgeru. kāpēc gan neuzkāpt uz trokšņainu vagonu, nomest dažas paprikas šķēles uz maizītes un kļūt par GCCB prozelītu? Neliels papildu darbs, daudz papildu pārdošanas. Problēma ir tā, ka viņi bieži neuzvelk pietiekami daudz zaļās čili, lai kaut ko mainītu!

Citiem viss ir kārtībā ar zaļās un Čīles attiecību, bet lielāko daļu krāšņuma nodod citiem papildinājumiem: tomātiem, salātiem, marinētiem gurķiem, oozām mērcēm. Buckhorn Tavern, man saka, padara drausmīgu "ielādētās" GCCB versiju. bet man patīk, ka mani GC ir priekšgalā un centrā manā GCCB.

Tad jūs atradīsiet locītavas, kurās uzsvars tiek likts uz pašu burgeru-prakse, kas ir domāta kvalitatīvi un ar kuru ir grūti strīdēties. Izņemot gadījumus, kad runa ir par Zaļās Čīles siera burgeriem. Burgeram Santa Fe, kas iegūst vislielāko nacionālo presi, Bobcat Bite, ir savi tikumi. Liellopu gaļu viņi katru dienu sasmalcina svaigu. Viņi sakrauj to biezā, biezā burgerī, ko pagatavos tieši jūsu gatavības pakāpē-reti sastopamais ir skaists-uz 50 gadus veca režģa, kas izrādās patiesi liellopu-sviesta garša. Bet šeit ir lielisks atspēkojums: ja jūs gatavojat izgatavot īpaši blīvu burgeru sava zaļā Čīles siera burgera pamatnē, ir jēga, ka gatavajam produktam jābūt vēl VAIRĀK sieramam un atdzesētam! Un Bobcat maizīte ir nedaudz par biezu, vēl vairāk pasliktinot čili-siera efektu. Attiecības ir viss! Es gribētu atgriezties pie Bobcat Bite-vecā laika apstākļi nekurienes vidū ir nenovērtējami-bet tikai tad, ja man prātā nav čili un siera.

Un tad. tur ir jātnieka kafejnīca kafejnīca, pa ceļam no Santafē uz Cerrillos ceļa, praktiski garām lielajai pilsētai. Patiesībā tas atrodas blakus degvielas uzpildes stacijai, šķiet, ka tā ir daļa no degvielas uzpildes stacijas. Ēdnīcas ir ārkārtīgi vietējas, tāpat kā serveri, šad un tad rada dažas saziņas problēmas ar tādiem Anglosiem kā es. Tam nav nozīmes. Serveri ir jauki, vieta ir aizņemta, tīra, efektīva, pasniedz dzērienus jūsu galvas izmērā. un GCCB uzspridzinās tavu prātu.

Pirmkārt, jums ir jāsaprot, ka šī iestāde, atšķirībā no citām, lielākoties ir Ņūmeksikas restorāns, kas atvērts katru dienu no 8 līdz 8. Tā ir burrito-enchilada-quesadilla vieta, kas nav kautrīga vai nepieredzējusi divu Čīles mērču (zaļā un sarkans), kas ir katras jaunmeksikāņu maltītes pamatā.

Vai jūs domājāt, ka slingēšana apstāsies, kad kāds pasūtīs zaļo Čīles siera burgeru? (Kas, starp citu, izvēlnē nav precīzi nosaukts. Bet neuztraucieties: vienkārši pajautājiet.)

Sākumā es zaudēju samaņu no tā šķīvja noliktās lietas lieluma - nevis paša burgera, bet gan teritorijas, ko tas aizņem kopā ar saviem partneriem. Šķīvis ierodas ar divām ārkārtīgi lielām hamburgera maizīšu pusītēm, katra ar atvērtu virsmu, pieķeras pie šķīvja vilkšanai. Viena no tām centrā ir skaists, ar biezpienu apbrūnināts hamburgers, kas nav ļoti biezs un mirdz ar labām lietām, kuras delikāta dēļ es vilcinos saukt par “taukiem”. Ar karoti virs vietas, kur abas maizītes satiekas, ir nenormāli daudz zaļās Čīles mērces, kas sajaukta ar dzeltenām siera lāsēm. Nogaršojiet mērci (jo Kungs zina, ka no tās nevar izvairīties). Ak mans Dievs! Šī garšo pēc zaļās Čīles!

Tagad dziļi elpojiet. Saspiediet šīs divas bulciņu pusītes, lai cik tās būtu netīras, un ieskaujiet ar tām savu gridburgeru. Ja jūs rūpējaties par savu kreklu, paceliet to uzmanīgi pie uzņemšanas vienības, ja jums tas ir vienalga, vienkārši lāpstiet šo tangu mutē. Maizītes ir nebūtiskas, bet perfektas liellopu gaļai ir lieliska režģa garša, lai gan to nevar novērtēt augstāk par liellopu gaļu citās vietās, izņemot burgeru vidi - ah! vide! -ir mīksts, slapjš, mitrs, sierīgs, čīle, īsta zaļās Čīles siera burgerness siltumnīca. Jums var rasties jautājums, kāpēc jums vajadzētu ēst kaut ko citu.

Ja kādreiz bija iemesls salikt čili, sieru un burgeru, šie cilvēki to ir atraduši. Buckhorn stilam var būt sava piemājas grila veida pievilcība, un Bobcat var iegūt liellopu gaļas vestibilu. bet šī vieta man liekas kā Ņūmeksika.

Pārvarēšanas departaments: Ja esat viens no tiem skarbākajiem čīlgalvjiem, kurš saņem papildu samaksu no papildu Scoville vienībām - atkal esat nonācis īstajā vietā! Jā, Horseman's Haven Café pamata GCCB ir patiešām labs pamata apdegums. Bet ēdienkarte piedāvā kaut ko tādu, ko sauc par 2. līmeņa zaļo Čīli (par diviem dolāriem)-kas ir neliels zaļās Čīles mērces garnīrs, kas, iespējams, prasīs jums iepriekš sakārtot kapsētu Santafē. Čīlgalvji kopā ar mani šīs pārveidojošās maltītes laikā piekrita: šī ir viena no karstākajām čili mērcēm, kas tiek pasniegta jebkur pasaulē, un tā saglabā paprikas garšu. Es iesaku jums to iegūt tikai tās ekstremitātes dēļ. un, ja jūsu sirds ir stipra, jūs smidzināt plānāko iedomājamo pavedienu gar GCCB.

Hei, klausies. Es esmu par tiem skaistajiem liellopa gaļas pauguriem, kas parādās visā Santafē. Bet manu balsi nevar nopirkt ar lielisku fileju: zaļajā Čīles siera burgerī svarīgs ir geštalts. Jātnieku kafejnīca Haven vienkārši gadās pagatavot visvairāk zaļo čili. un pats geštalts, līdz šim.


Zaļā Čīles siera burgers: karstākais ceļmalas ēdiens ASV

2009. gada jūlijā, praktiski vienas nakts laikā, Zaļā Čīles siera burgers Amerikā kļuva par nacionālo gardēžu apsēstību. Tas ir mēnesis, kad Bobby Flay mačo-burgeru izaicinājums Buckhorn Tavern Sanantonio, N.M., tika pārraidīts Pārtikas tīklā. Patiesību sakot, Flejam Austrumu piekrastes muca bija sakultas vietējā Ņūmeksikas burgeru meistara Bobija Olguina. Bet patiesais uzvarētājs bija pats Zaļās Čīles siera burgers, kurš pēkšņi visā valstī ieguva gandrīz mītiskus apmērus kā kovboju dievu rodeo ēdiens.

GCCB - kas faktiski radās Amerikas dienvidrietumos pagājušā gadsimta piecdesmitajos gados, bet gadu desmitiem atradās pie nacionālā ēdiena radara - piedzima tāpat kā Amerikas ceļš un kā amerikāņu ceļa ēdiens, iegūstot jaunu nozīmi. Hamburgera locītavas visur meklēja jaunus veidus, kā pievilināt nesen kaltos autobraucējus, un dienvidrietumu stratēģija bija loģiska. Ņūmeksika ar izcilajiem Hatch chiles ir ASV zaļā Čīles galvaspilsēta - tad kāpēc kādam uzņēmīgam kafejnīcas īpašniekam nevajadzētu mest dažas zaļās paprikas uz siera burgera? Neviens nezina, kurš tieši to izdarīja pirmais, bet jums ir dažādi GCCB vēsturnieki, kas debatē par Burt's Burger Bowl Santafē, par Bobcat Bite netālu no Santa Fe, par Bleika Lotaburger sākotnējo atrašanās vietu Albukerkē un, protams, par Buckhorn Tavern. Sanantonio.

Par manu naudu labākais no visiem ir atrodams praktiski nezināmā niršanas kafejnīcā tieši Santafē: Horseman's Haven Café. Tas neparādās nacionālajos ziņu stāstos, tāpat kā citi, ko es to atradu, tikai runājot ar vietējiem ēdājiem, un pārliecinot viņus, ka neesmu pārāk snobis, lai mīlētu šo vietu.

Es nebiju un daru. Man jātnieka kafejnīca Horseman izvairās no "problēmām", kas nomoka tagad īpaši slaveno Zaļā Čīles siera burgera pasauli.

Pirmkārt, ēdiens ir sava veida mārketinga sajūta. Ja gadu desmitiem savā ēdnīcā ēdāt siera burgeru. kāpēc gan neuzkāpt uz trokšņainu vagonu, nomest dažas paprikas šķēles uz maizītes un kļūt par GCCB prozelītu? Neliels papildu darbs, daudz papildu pārdošanas. Problēma ir tā, ka viņi bieži neuzvelk pietiekami daudz zaļās čili, lai kaut ko mainītu!

Citiem viss ir kārtībā ar zaļās un Čīles attiecību, bet lielāko daļu krāšņuma nodod citiem papildinājumiem: tomātiem, salātiem, marinētiem gurķiem, oozām mērcēm. Buckhorn Tavern, man saka, rada drausmīgu "ielādētās" GCCB versiju. bet man patīk, ka mani GC ir priekšgalā un centrā manā GCCB.

Tad jūs atradīsiet locītavas, kurās uzsvars tiek likts uz pašu burgeru-prakse, kas ir domāta kvalitatīvi un ar kuru ir grūti strīdēties. Izņemot gadījumus, kad runa ir par Zaļās Čīles siera burgeriem. Burgeram Santa Fe, kas iegūst vislielāko nacionālo presi, Bobcat Bite, ir savi tikumi. Liellopu gaļu viņi katru dienu sasmalcina svaigu. Viņi sakrauj to biezā, biezā burgerī, ko pagatavos tieši jūsu gatavības pakāpē-reti sastopamais ir skaists-uz 50 gadus veca režģa, kas izrādās patiesi liellopu-sviesta garša. Bet šeit ir lielisks atspēkojums: ja jūs gatavojat izgatavot īpaši blīvu burgeru sava zaļā Čīles siera burgera pamatnē, ir jēga, ka gatavajam produktam jābūt vēl VAIRĀK sieramam un atdzesētam! Un Bobcat maizīte ir nedaudz par biezu, vēl vairāk pasliktinot čili-siera efektu. Attiecības ir viss! Es gribētu atgriezties pie Bobcat Bite-vecā laika apstākļi nekurienes vidū ir nenovērtējami-bet tikai tad, ja man prātā nav čili un siera.

Un tad. tur ir jātnieka kafejnīca kafejnīca, pa ceļam no Santafē uz Cerrillos ceļa, praktiski garām lielajai pilsētai. Patiesībā tas atrodas blakus degvielas uzpildes stacijai, šķiet, ka tā ir daļa no degvielas uzpildes stacijas. Ēdnīcas ir ārkārtīgi vietējas, tāpat kā serveri, šad un tad rada dažas saziņas problēmas ar tādiem Anglosiem kā es. Tam nav nozīmes. Serveri ir jauki, vieta ir aizņemta, tīra, efektīva, pasniedz dzērienus jūsu galvas izmērā. un GCCB uzspridzinās tavu prātu.

Pirmkārt, jums ir jāsaprot, ka šī iestāde, atšķirībā no citām, lielākoties ir Ņūmeksikas restorāns, kas atvērts katru dienu no 8 līdz 8. Tā ir burrito-enchilada-quesadilla vieta, kas nav kautrīga vai nepieredzējusi divu Čīles mērču (zaļā un sarkans), kas ir katras jaunmeksikāņu maltītes pamatā.

Vai jūs domājāt, ka slingēšana apstāsies, kad kāds pasūtīs zaļo Čīles siera burgeru? (Kas, starp citu, izvēlnē nav precīzi nosaukts. Bet neuztraucieties: vienkārši pajautājiet.)

Sākumā es kļuvu bezsamaņā uz tās šķīvja nolādētās lietas lieluma - nevis paša burgera, bet gan teritorijas, ko tas aizņem kopā ar saviem partneriem. Šķīvis ierodas ar divām ārkārtīgi lielām hamburgera maizīšu pusītēm, katra ar atvērtu virsmu, pieķeras pie šķīvja vilkšanai. Kāds no tiem ir centrēts uz skaisti brūnganaini brūngana hamburgera, kas nav ļoti biezs un mirdz ar labām lietām, kuras delikāta dēļ es vilcinos saukt par "taukiem". Ar karoti virs vietas, kur abas maizītes satiekas, ir nenormāli daudz zaļās Čīles mērces, kas sajaukta ar dzeltenām siera lāsēm. Nogaršojiet mērci (jo Kungs zina, ka no tās nevar izvairīties). Ak mans Dievs! Šī garšo pēc zaļās Čīles!

Tagad dziļi elpojiet. Savelciet šīs divas bulciņu pusītes, lai cik tās būtu netīras, un ieskaujiet ar tām savu gridburgeru. Ja jūs rūpējaties par savu kreklu, paceliet to uzmanīgi pie uzņemšanas vienības, ja jums tas ir vienalga, vienkārši lāpstiet šo tangu mutē. Maizītes ir nebūtiskas, bet perfektas liellopu gaļai ir lieliska režģa garša, lai gan to nevar novērtēt augstāk par liellopu gaļu citās vietās, izņemot burgeru vidi - ah! vide! -ir mīksts, slapjš, mitrs, sierīgs, čīle, īsta zaļās Čīles siera burgerness siltumnīca. Jums var rasties jautājums, kāpēc jums vajadzētu ēst kaut ko citu.

Ja kādreiz bija iemesls salikt čili, sieru un burgeru, šie cilvēki to ir atraduši. Buckhorn stilam var būt sava piemājas grila veida pievilcība, un Bobcat var iegūt liellopu gaļas vestibilu. bet šī vieta man liekas kā Ņūmeksika.

Pārvarēšanas departaments: Ja esat viens no tiem skarbākajiem čīlgalvjiem, kurš saņem papildu samaksu no papildu Scoville vienībām - atkal esat nonācis īstajā vietā! Jā, Horseman's Haven Café pamata GCCB ir patiešām labs pamata apdegums. Bet ēdienkarte piedāvā kaut ko tādu, ko sauc par 2. līmeņa zaļo Čīli (par diviem dolāriem)-kas ir neliels zaļās Čīles mērces garnīrs, kas, iespējams, prasīs jums iepriekš sakārtot kapsētu Santafē. Čīlgalvji kopā ar mani šīs pārveidojošās maltītes laikā piekrita: šī ir viena no karstākajām čili mērcēm, kas tiek pasniegta jebkur pasaulē, un tā saglabā paprikas garšu. Es iesaku jums to iegūt tikai tās ekstremitātes dēļ. un, ja jūsu sirds ir stipra, jūs smidzināt plānāko iedomājamo pavedienu gar GCCB.

Hei, klausies. Es esmu par tiem skaistajiem liellopa gaļas pauguriem, kas parādās visā Santafē. Bet manu balsi nevar nopirkt ar lielisku fileju: zaļajā Čīles siera burgerī svarīgs ir geštalts. Jātnieku kafejnīca Haven vienkārši gadās pagatavot visvairāk zaļo čili. un pats geštalts, līdz šim.


Zaļā Čīles siera burgers: karstākais ceļmalas ēdiens ASV

2009. gada jūlijā, praktiski vienas nakts laikā, Zaļās Čīles siera burgers kļuva par nacionālo gardēžu apsēstību Amerikā. Tas ir mēnesis, kad Pārtikas tīklā tika demonstrēts Bobija Fleja mačo-burgeru izaicinājums Buckhorn krodziņam Sanantonio, N.M. Patiesību sakot, Flejam Austrumu piekrastes muca bija sakultas vietējā Ņūmeksikas burgeru meistara Bobija Olguina. Bet patiesais uzvarētājs bija pats Zaļās Čīles siera burgers, kas pēkšņi visā valstī ieguva gandrīz mītiskus apmērus kā kovboju dievu rodeo ēdiens.

GCCB - kas faktiski radās Amerikas dienvidrietumos pagājušā gadsimta piecdesmitajos gados, bet gadu desmitiem atradās pie nacionālā ēdiena radara - piedzima tāpat kā Amerikas ceļš un kā amerikāņu ceļa ēdiens, iegūstot jaunu nozīmi. Hamburgera locītavas visur meklēja jaunus veidus, kā pievilināt nesen kaltos autobraucējus, un dienvidrietumu stratēģija bija loģiska. Ņūmeksika ar izcilajiem Hatch chiles ir ASV zaļā Čīles galvaspilsēta - tad kāpēc kādam uzņēmīgam kafejnīcas īpašniekam nevajadzētu mest dažas zaļās paprikas uz siera burgera? Neviens nezina, kurš tieši to izdarīja pirmais - bet jums ir dažādi GCCB vēsturnieki, kas debatē par Burt's Burger Bowl Santafē, Bobcat Bite netālu no Santa Fe, Bleika Lotaburger sākotnējo atrašanās vietu Albukerkē un, protams, par Buckhorn Tavern Sanantonio.

Par manu naudu labākais no visiem ir atrodams praktiski nezināmā niršanas kafejnīcā tieši Santafē: Horseman's Haven Café. Tas neparādās valsts ziņu sižetos, tāpat kā citi, ko es to atradu, tikai runājot ar vietējiem ēdājiem, un pārliecinot viņus, ka neesmu pārāk snobis, lai mīlētu šo vietu.

Es nebiju un daru. Man jātnieka kafejnīca Horseman izvairās no "problēmām", kas nomoka tagad īpaši slaveno Zaļā Čīles siera burgera pasauli.

Pirmkārt, ēdiens ir sava veida mārketinga sajūta. Ja gadu desmitiem savā ēdnīcā ēdāt siera burgeru. kāpēc gan neuzkāpt uz trokšņainu vagonu, nomest dažas paprikas šķēles uz maizītes un kļūt par GCCB prozelītu? Neliels papildu darbs, daudz papildu pārdošanas. Problēma ir tā, ka viņi bieži neuzvelk pietiekami daudz zaļās čili, lai kaut ko mainītu!

Citiem viss ir kārtībā ar zaļās un Čīles attiecību, bet lielāko daļu krāšņuma nodod citiem papildinājumiem: tomātiem, salātiem, marinētiem gurķiem, oozām mērcēm. Buckhorn Tavern, man saka, rada drausmīgu "ielādētās" GCCB versiju. bet man patīk, ka mani GC ir priekšgalā un centrā manā GCCB.

Tad jūs atradīsiet locītavas, kurās uzsvars tiek likts uz pašu burgeru-prakse, kas ir domāta kvalitatīvi un ar kuru ir grūti strīdēties. Izņemot gadījumus, kad runa ir par Zaļās Čīles siera burgeriem. Burgeram Santafē, kas iegūst vislielāko nacionālo presi, Bobcat Bite, ir savi tikumi. Liellopu gaļu viņi katru dienu sasmalcina svaigu. Viņi sakrauj to biezā, biezā burgerī, ko pagatavos tieši jūsu gatavības pakāpē-reti sastopamais ir skaists-uz 50 gadus veca režģa, kas izrādās patiesi liellopu-sviesta garša. Bet šeit ir lielisks atspēkojums: ja jūs gatavojat izgatavot īpaši blīvu burgeru sava zaļā Čīles siera burgera pamatnē, ir jēga, ka gatavajam produktam jābūt vēl VAIRĀK sieramam un atdzesētam! Un Bobcat maizīte ir nedaudz par biezu, vēl vairāk pasliktinot čili-siera efektu. Attiecības ir viss! Es gribētu atgriezties pie Bobcat Bite-vecā laika apstākļi nekurienes vidū ir nenovērtējami-bet tikai tad, ja man prātā nav čili un siera.

Un tad. tur ir jātnieka kafejnīca kafejnīca, pa ceļam no Santafē uz Cerrillos ceļa, praktiski garām lielajai pilsētai. Patiesībā tas atrodas blakus degvielas uzpildes stacijai, šķiet, ka tā ir daļa no degvielas uzpildes stacijas. Ēdnīcas ir ārkārtīgi vietējas, tāpat kā serveri, šad un tad rada dažas saziņas problēmas ar tādiem Anglosiem kā es. Tam nav nozīmes. Serveri ir jauki, vieta ir aizņemta, tīra, efektīva, piedāvā dzērienus jūsu galvas izmērā. un GCCB uzspridzinās tavu prātu.

Pirmkārt, jums ir jāsaprot, ka šī iestāde, atšķirībā no citām, lielākoties ir Ņūmeksikas restorāns, kas atvērts katru dienu no 8 līdz 8. Tā ir burrito-enchilada-quesadilla vieta, kas nav kautrīga vai nepieredzējusi divu Čīles mērču (zaļā un sarkans), kas ir katras jaunmeksikāņu maltītes pamatā.

Vai jūs domājāt, ka slingēšana apstāsies, kad kāds pasūtīs zaļo Čīles siera burgeru? (Kas, starp citu, izvēlnē nav precīzi nosaukts. Bet neuztraucieties: vienkārši pajautājiet.)

Sākumā es zaudēju samaņu no tā šķīvja noliktās lietas lieluma - nevis paša burgera, bet gan teritorijas, ko tas aizņem kopā ar saviem partneriem. Šķīvis ierodas ar divām ārkārtīgi lielām hamburgera bulciņu pusītēm, katra ar atvērtu virsmu, pieķeras pie šķīvja vilkšanai. Viena no tām centrā ir skaists, ar biezpienu apbrūnināts hamburgers, kas nav ļoti biezs un mirdz ar labām lietām, kuras delikāta dēļ es vilcinos saukt par “taukiem”. Ar karoti virs vietas, kur abas maizītes satiekas, ir nenormāli daudz zaļās Čīles mērces, kas sajaukta ar dzeltenām siera lāsēm. Nogaršojiet mērci (jo Kungs zina, ka no tās nevar izvairīties). Ak mans Dievs! Šī garšo pēc zaļās Čīles!

Tagad dziļi elpojiet. Savelciet šīs divas bulciņu pusītes, lai cik tās būtu netīras, un ieskaujiet ar tām savu gridburgeru. Ja jūs rūpējaties par savu kreklu, paceliet to uzmanīgi pie uzņemšanas vienības, ja jums tas nav vienalga, vienkārši lāpstiet šo tangu mutē. Maizītes ir nebūtiskas, bet perfektas liellopu gaļai ir lieliska režģa garša, lai gan to nevar novērtēt augstāk par liellopu gaļu citās vietās, izņemot burgeru vidi - ah! vide! -ir mīksts, slapjš, mitrs, sierīgs, čīle, īsta zaļās Čīles siera burgerness siltumnīca. Jums var rasties jautājums, kāpēc jums vajadzētu ēst kaut ko citu.

Ja kādreiz bija iemesls salikt čili, sieru un burgeru, šie cilvēki to ir atraduši. Buckhorn stilam var būt sava piemājas grila veida pievilcība, un Bobcat var iegūt liellopu gaļas vestibilu. bet šī vieta man liekas kā Ņūmeksika.

Pārvarēšanas departaments: Ja esat viens no tiem skarbākajiem čīlgalvjiem, kurš saņem papildu samaksu no papildu Scoville vienībām - atkal esat nonācis īstajā vietā! Jā, Horseman's Haven Café pamata GCCB ir patiešām labs pamata apdegums. Bet ēdienkarte piedāvā kaut ko tādu, ko sauc par 2. līmeņa zaļo Čīli (par diviem dolāriem)-kas ir neliels zaļās Čīles mērces garnīrs, kas var prasīt jums iepriekš sakārtot kapsētu Santafē. Čīlgalvji kopā ar mani šīs pārveidojošās maltītes laikā piekrita: šī ir viena no karstākajām čili mērcēm, kas tiek pasniegta jebkur pasaulē, un tā saglabā paprikas garšu. Es iesaku jums to iegūt tikai tās ekstremitātes dēļ. un, ja jūsu sirds ir stipra, jūs smidzināt plānāko iedomājamo pavedienu gar GCCB.

Hei, klausies. Es esmu par tiem skaistajiem liellopa gaļas pauguriem, kas parādās visā Santafē. Bet manu balsi nevar nopirkt ar lielisku fileju: zaļajā Čīles siera burgerī svarīgs ir geštalts. Jātnieku kafejnīca Haven vienkārši gadās pagatavot visvairāk zaļo čili. un pats geštalts, līdz šim.


Zaļā Čīles siera burgers: karstākais ceļmalas ēdiens ASV

2009. gada jūlijā, praktiski vienas nakts laikā, Zaļā Čīles siera burgers Amerikā kļuva par nacionālo gardēžu apsēstību. Tas ir mēnesis, kad Pārtikas tīklā tika demonstrēts Bobija Fleja mačo-burgeru izaicinājums Buckhorn krodziņam Sanantonio, N.M. Patiesību sakot, Flejam Austrumu piekrastes muca bija sakultas vietējā Ņūmeksikas burgeru meistara Bobija Olguina. Bet patiesais uzvarētājs bija pats Zaļās Čīles siera burgers, kurš pēkšņi visā valstī ieguva gandrīz mītiskus apmērus kā kovboju dievu rodeo ēdiens.

GCCB - kas faktiski radās Amerikas dienvidrietumos pagājušā gadsimta piecdesmitajos gados, bet gadu desmitiem atradās pie nacionālā ēdiena radara - radās tāpat kā Amerikas ceļš un kā amerikāņu ceļa ēdiens, iegūstot jaunu nozīmi. Hamburgera locītavas visur meklēja jaunus veidus, kā pievilināt nesen kaltos autobraucējus, un dienvidrietumu stratēģija bija loģiska. Ņūmeksika ar izcilajiem Hatch chiles ir ASV zaļā Čīles galvaspilsēta - tad kāpēc kādam uzņēmīgam kafejnīcas īpašniekam nevajadzētu mest dažas zaļās paprikas uz siera burgera? Neviens nezina, kurš tieši to izdarīja pirmais, bet jums ir dažādi GCCB vēsturnieki, kas debatē par Burt's Burger Bowl Santafē, par Bobcat Bite netālu no Santa Fe, par Bleika Lotaburger sākotnējo atrašanās vietu Albukerkē un, protams, par Buckhorn Tavern. Sanantonio.

Par manu naudu labākais no visiem ir atrodams praktiski nezināmā niršanas kafejnīcā tieši Santafē: Horseman's Haven Café. Tas neparādās valsts ziņu sižetos, tāpat kā citi, ko es to atradu, tikai runājot ar vietējiem ēdājiem, un pārliecinot viņus, ka neesmu pārāk snobis, lai mīlētu šo vietu.

Es nebiju un daru. Man jātnieka Haven Café izvairās no "problēmām", kas nomoka tagad īpaši slaveno Zaļā Čīles siera burgera pasauli.

Pirmkārt, ēdiens ir sava veida mārketinga sajūta. Ja gadu desmitiem savā ēdnīcā ēdāt siera burgeru. kāpēc gan neuzkāpt uz trokšņainu vagonu, nomest dažas paprikas šķēles uz maizītes un kļūt par GCCB prozelītu? Neliels papildu darbs, daudz papildu pārdošanas. Problēma ir tā, ka viņi bieži neuzvelk pietiekami daudz zaļās čili, lai kaut ko mainītu!

Citiem viss ir kārtībā ar zaļās un Čīles attiecību, bet lielāko daļu krāšņuma nodod citiem papildinājumiem: tomātiem, salātiem, marinētiem gurķiem, oozām mērcēm. Buckhorn Tavern, man saka, rada drausmīgu "ielādētās" GCCB versiju. bet man patīk, ka mani GC ir priekšgalā un centrā manā GCCB.

Tad jūs atradīsiet locītavas, kurās uzsvars tiek likts uz pašu burgeru-prakse, kas ir domāta kvalitatīvi un ar kuru ir grūti strīdēties. Izņemot gadījumus, kad runa ir par Zaļās Čīles siera burgeriem. Burgeram Santa Fe, kas iegūst vislielāko nacionālo presi, Bobcat Bite, ir savi tikumi. Liellopu gaļu viņi katru dienu sasmalcina svaigu. Viņi sakrauj to biezā, biezā burgerī, ko pagatavos tieši jūsu gatavības pakāpē-reti sastopamais ir skaists-uz 50 gadus veca režģa, kas izrādās patiesi liellopu-sviesta garša. Bet šeit ir lielisks atspēkojums: ja jūs gatavojat izgatavot īpaši blīvu burgeru sava zaļā Čīles siera burgera pamatnē, ir jēga, ka gatavajam produktam jābūt vēl VAIRĀK sieramam un atdzesētam! Un Bobcat maizīte ir nedaudz par biezu, vēl vairāk pasliktinot čili-siera efektu. Attiecības ir viss! Es gribētu atgriezties pie Bobcat Bite-vecā laika apstākļi nekurienes vidū ir nenovērtējami-bet tikai tad, ja man prātā nav čili un siera.

Un tad. tur ir jātnieka kafejnīca kafejnīca, pa ceļam no Santafē uz Cerrillos ceļa, praktiski garām lielajai pilsētai. Patiesībā tas atrodas blakus degvielas uzpildes stacijai, šķiet, ka tā ir daļa no degvielas uzpildes stacijas. Ēdnīcas ir ārkārtīgi vietējas, tāpat kā serveri, šad un tad rada dažas saziņas problēmas ar tādiem Anglosiem kā es. Tam nav nozīmes. Serveri ir jauki, vieta ir aizņemta, tīra, efektīva, piedāvā dzērienus jūsu galvas izmērā. un GCCB uzspridzinās tavu prātu.

Pirmkārt, jums ir jāsaprot, ka šī iestāde, atšķirībā no citām, lielākoties ir Ņūmeksikas restorāns, kas atvērts katru dienu no 8 līdz 8. Tā ir burrito-enchilada-quesadilla vieta, kas nav kautrīga vai nepieredzējusi divu Čīles mērču (zaļā un sarkans), kas ir katras jaunmeksikāņu maltītes pamatā.

Vai jūs domājāt, ka slingēšana apstāsies, kad kāds pasūtīs zaļo Čīles siera burgeru? (Kas, starp citu, izvēlnē nav precīzi nosaukts. Bet neuztraucieties: vienkārši pajautājiet.)

Sākumā es zaudēju samaņu no tā šķīvja noliktās lietas lieluma - nevis paša burgera, bet gan teritorijas, ko tas aizņem kopā ar saviem partneriem. Šķīvis ierodas ar divām ārkārtīgi lielām hamburgera maizīšu pusītēm, katra ar atvērtu virsmu, pieķeras pie šķīvja vilkšanai. Kāds no tiem ir centrēts uz skaisti brūnganaini brūngana hamburgera, kas nav ļoti biezs un mirdz ar labām lietām, kuras delikāta dēļ es vilcinos saukt par "taukiem". Ar karoti virs vietas, kur abas maizītes satiekas, ir nenormāli daudz zaļās Čīles mērces, kas sajaukta ar dzeltenām siera lāsēm. Taste the sauce (because Lord knows you can't avoid it). Oh my God! This tastes like green chile!

Now take a deep breath. Clasp those two bun halves, messy as they may be, and surround your griddleburger with them. If you care about your shirt, raise them in a gingerly fashion to your ingestion unit if you don't care, just shovel that thang in your mouth. The buns are insubstantial but perfect the beef has an excellent griddle taste, though you can't rate it above the beef at the other places but the burger environment -- ah! the environment! -- is soft, wet, humid, cheesy, chile-y, a veritable hothouse of Green Chile Cheeseburgerness. You may wonder why you should eat anything else.

If there was ever a reason to put together chiles, cheese and a burger, these people have found it. The Buckhorn style may have its backyard-barbecue kind of appeal, and the Bobcat may get the beef lobby. but this place feels like New Mexico to me.

Overkill Department: If you're one of those hardcore chileheads who gets an extra charge from extra Scoville units -- once again, you have come to the right place! Yes, the basic GCCB at Horseman's Haven Café has a real good basic burn to it. But the menu offers something called Level #2 Green Chile (for two bucks) -- which is a small side dish of green chile sauce that may require you to pre-arrange a cemetery for yourself in Santa Fe. The chileheads with me during this transformative meal all agreed: This is one of the hottest chile sauces served anywhere in the world, and it maintains its capsicum flavor. I recommend you get it, just for its extremity. and that, if your heart is strong, you drizzle the thinnest imaginable thread of it along your sauce-topped GCCB.

Hey, listen. I'm all for those beautiful mounds of ground beef that are popping up all over Santa Fe. But my vote can't be bought by great sirloin: in a Green Chile Cheeseburger, it is the gestalt that matters. Horsemen's Haven Café just happens to dish up the most green chiles. and the most gestalt, by far.


The Green Chile Cheeseburger: Hottest Roadside Dish in the U.S.

In July 2009, practically overnight, the Green Chile Cheeseburger became a national foodie obsession in America. That's the month that Bobby Flay's macho-burger challenge to the Buckhorn Tavern in San Antonio, N.M., aired on the Food Network. Truth be told, Flay had his East Coast butt whipped by local New Mexico burger master Bobby Olguin. But the real winner was the Green Chile Cheeseburger itself, which suddenly took on nearly mythic proportions across the country as the rodeo food of the cowboy gods.

The GCCB -- actually arising in the American southwest in the 1950s, but off the national foodie radar for decades -- was born just as the American road, and as American road food, were gaining new importance. Hamburger joints everywhere were finding novel ways to lure in newly-minted motorists, and the southwest's strategy was logical. New Mexico, with its vaunted Hatch chiles, is the green chile capital of the U.S. -- so why shouldn't some enterprising café owner throw some green capsicums on a cheeseburger? No one knows who it was exactly that did it first -- but you have various GCCB historians debating Burt's Burger Bowl in Santa Fe, Bobcat Bite near Santa Fe, the original location of Blake's Lotaburger in Albuquerque, and, of course, the Buckhorn Tavern in San Antonio.

For my money, the best of them all is found at a practically unknown dive café just on the edge of Santa Fe: Horseman's Haven Café. It does not appear in national news stories, like the others I found it only by talking to local eaters, and convincing them I wasn't too snooty to love this place.

I wasn't, and I do. For me, Horseman's Haven Café avoids the "problems" that are plaguing the now ultra-famous world of the Green Chile Cheeseburger.

For one thing, the dish is kind of a marketing sensation. If you've been griddling up a cheeseburger at your diner for decades. why not hop on the buzz-driven bandwagon, drop a few capsicum slices on your bun, and become a GCCB proselyte? Little extra work, lots of extra sales. The problem is they often don't put on enough green chile to make a difference!

Others are OK on the green-chile ratio, but hand over most of the glamour to the other add-ons: tomatoes, lettuce, pickle, oozy sauces. The Buckhorn Tavern, I'm told, makes a terrific version of the "loaded" GCCB. but I like my GCs to be front and center in my GCCB.

Then you'll find the joints that put the emphasis on the burger itself -- a quality-minded practice that's hard to argue with. Except when it comes to Green Chile Cheeseburgers. The Santa Fe burger getting the greatest national press, the one at Bobcat Bite, does have its virtues. They grind the beef fresh, every day. They stack it into a thick, burly burger, which they will cook to exactly your degree of doneness -- the rare one is beautiful -- on a 50-year-old griddle that turns out a genuinely beefy-buttery taste. But here's the great pushback: If you're going to make a super-dense burger the base of your green chile cheeseburger, it makes sense that the finished product has to be even MORE cheesed and chiled! And the Bobcat bun's a little too thick, dulling the chile-cheese effect still further. Ratios are everything! I'd go back to Bobcat Bite -- the old-time setting in the middle of nowhere is priceless -- but only if I don't have chiles and cheese on my mind.

And then. there's Horseman's Haven Cafe, way the heck out of Santa Fe on Cerrillos Road, practically past the big town. It is right next to a gas station in fact, it seems part of the gas station. The diners are extremely local as are the servers, giving rise now and then to a few communication problems with Anglos like me. None of this matters. The servers are lovely the place is busy, clean, efficient, serves drinks the size of your head. and the GCCB will blow your mind.

First, you must understand that this establishment, unlike the others, is mostly a New Mexican restaurant, open every day from 8 until 8. It is a burrito-enchilada-quesadilla place, not shy or inexperienced in slinging the two chile sauces (green and red) that are at the heart of every New Mexican meal.

Did you think the slinging would stop when someone orders a Green Chile Cheeseburger? (Which, by the way, is not exactly named as such on the menu. But don't worry: Just ask for it.)

What made me swoon, initially, was the size of the damned thing on its platter -- not the burger itself, but the territory it occupies with its partners. The platter arrives with two extremely large hamburger bun halves, each open-faced, clinging to the plate for traction. Sort of centered on one of them is a beautiful griddle-browned hamburger, not very thick, glistening with the good stuff that, for the sake of the delicate, I hesitate to refer to as "grease." Spooned over the very spot where the two buns meet is an insane amount --insanely gooey -- of green chile sauce mixed with yellow blobs of cheese. Taste the sauce (because Lord knows you can't avoid it). Oh my God! This tastes like green chile!

Now take a deep breath. Clasp those two bun halves, messy as they may be, and surround your griddleburger with them. If you care about your shirt, raise them in a gingerly fashion to your ingestion unit if you don't care, just shovel that thang in your mouth. The buns are insubstantial but perfect the beef has an excellent griddle taste, though you can't rate it above the beef at the other places but the burger environment -- ah! the environment! -- is soft, wet, humid, cheesy, chile-y, a veritable hothouse of Green Chile Cheeseburgerness. You may wonder why you should eat anything else.

If there was ever a reason to put together chiles, cheese and a burger, these people have found it. The Buckhorn style may have its backyard-barbecue kind of appeal, and the Bobcat may get the beef lobby. but this place feels like New Mexico to me.

Overkill Department: If you're one of those hardcore chileheads who gets an extra charge from extra Scoville units -- once again, you have come to the right place! Yes, the basic GCCB at Horseman's Haven Café has a real good basic burn to it. But the menu offers something called Level #2 Green Chile (for two bucks) -- which is a small side dish of green chile sauce that may require you to pre-arrange a cemetery for yourself in Santa Fe. The chileheads with me during this transformative meal all agreed: This is one of the hottest chile sauces served anywhere in the world, and it maintains its capsicum flavor. I recommend you get it, just for its extremity. and that, if your heart is strong, you drizzle the thinnest imaginable thread of it along your sauce-topped GCCB.

Hey, listen. I'm all for those beautiful mounds of ground beef that are popping up all over Santa Fe. But my vote can't be bought by great sirloin: in a Green Chile Cheeseburger, it is the gestalt that matters. Horsemen's Haven Café just happens to dish up the most green chiles. and the most gestalt, by far.


The Green Chile Cheeseburger: Hottest Roadside Dish in the U.S.

In July 2009, practically overnight, the Green Chile Cheeseburger became a national foodie obsession in America. That's the month that Bobby Flay's macho-burger challenge to the Buckhorn Tavern in San Antonio, N.M., aired on the Food Network. Truth be told, Flay had his East Coast butt whipped by local New Mexico burger master Bobby Olguin. But the real winner was the Green Chile Cheeseburger itself, which suddenly took on nearly mythic proportions across the country as the rodeo food of the cowboy gods.

The GCCB -- actually arising in the American southwest in the 1950s, but off the national foodie radar for decades -- was born just as the American road, and as American road food, were gaining new importance. Hamburger joints everywhere were finding novel ways to lure in newly-minted motorists, and the southwest's strategy was logical. New Mexico, with its vaunted Hatch chiles, is the green chile capital of the U.S. -- so why shouldn't some enterprising café owner throw some green capsicums on a cheeseburger? No one knows who it was exactly that did it first -- but you have various GCCB historians debating Burt's Burger Bowl in Santa Fe, Bobcat Bite near Santa Fe, the original location of Blake's Lotaburger in Albuquerque, and, of course, the Buckhorn Tavern in San Antonio.

For my money, the best of them all is found at a practically unknown dive café just on the edge of Santa Fe: Horseman's Haven Café. It does not appear in national news stories, like the others I found it only by talking to local eaters, and convincing them I wasn't too snooty to love this place.

I wasn't, and I do. For me, Horseman's Haven Café avoids the "problems" that are plaguing the now ultra-famous world of the Green Chile Cheeseburger.

For one thing, the dish is kind of a marketing sensation. If you've been griddling up a cheeseburger at your diner for decades. why not hop on the buzz-driven bandwagon, drop a few capsicum slices on your bun, and become a GCCB proselyte? Little extra work, lots of extra sales. The problem is they often don't put on enough green chile to make a difference!

Others are OK on the green-chile ratio, but hand over most of the glamour to the other add-ons: tomatoes, lettuce, pickle, oozy sauces. The Buckhorn Tavern, I'm told, makes a terrific version of the "loaded" GCCB. but I like my GCs to be front and center in my GCCB.

Then you'll find the joints that put the emphasis on the burger itself -- a quality-minded practice that's hard to argue with. Except when it comes to Green Chile Cheeseburgers. The Santa Fe burger getting the greatest national press, the one at Bobcat Bite, does have its virtues. They grind the beef fresh, every day. They stack it into a thick, burly burger, which they will cook to exactly your degree of doneness -- the rare one is beautiful -- on a 50-year-old griddle that turns out a genuinely beefy-buttery taste. But here's the great pushback: If you're going to make a super-dense burger the base of your green chile cheeseburger, it makes sense that the finished product has to be even MORE cheesed and chiled! And the Bobcat bun's a little too thick, dulling the chile-cheese effect still further. Ratios are everything! I'd go back to Bobcat Bite -- the old-time setting in the middle of nowhere is priceless -- but only if I don't have chiles and cheese on my mind.

And then. there's Horseman's Haven Cafe, way the heck out of Santa Fe on Cerrillos Road, practically past the big town. It is right next to a gas station in fact, it seems part of the gas station. The diners are extremely local as are the servers, giving rise now and then to a few communication problems with Anglos like me. None of this matters. The servers are lovely the place is busy, clean, efficient, serves drinks the size of your head. and the GCCB will blow your mind.

First, you must understand that this establishment, unlike the others, is mostly a New Mexican restaurant, open every day from 8 until 8. It is a burrito-enchilada-quesadilla place, not shy or inexperienced in slinging the two chile sauces (green and red) that are at the heart of every New Mexican meal.

Did you think the slinging would stop when someone orders a Green Chile Cheeseburger? (Which, by the way, is not exactly named as such on the menu. But don't worry: Just ask for it.)

What made me swoon, initially, was the size of the damned thing on its platter -- not the burger itself, but the territory it occupies with its partners. The platter arrives with two extremely large hamburger bun halves, each open-faced, clinging to the plate for traction. Sort of centered on one of them is a beautiful griddle-browned hamburger, not very thick, glistening with the good stuff that, for the sake of the delicate, I hesitate to refer to as "grease." Spooned over the very spot where the two buns meet is an insane amount --insanely gooey -- of green chile sauce mixed with yellow blobs of cheese. Taste the sauce (because Lord knows you can't avoid it). Oh my God! This tastes like green chile!

Now take a deep breath. Clasp those two bun halves, messy as they may be, and surround your griddleburger with them. If you care about your shirt, raise them in a gingerly fashion to your ingestion unit if you don't care, just shovel that thang in your mouth. The buns are insubstantial but perfect the beef has an excellent griddle taste, though you can't rate it above the beef at the other places but the burger environment -- ah! the environment! -- is soft, wet, humid, cheesy, chile-y, a veritable hothouse of Green Chile Cheeseburgerness. You may wonder why you should eat anything else.

If there was ever a reason to put together chiles, cheese and a burger, these people have found it. The Buckhorn style may have its backyard-barbecue kind of appeal, and the Bobcat may get the beef lobby. but this place feels like New Mexico to me.

Overkill Department: If you're one of those hardcore chileheads who gets an extra charge from extra Scoville units -- once again, you have come to the right place! Yes, the basic GCCB at Horseman's Haven Café has a real good basic burn to it. But the menu offers something called Level #2 Green Chile (for two bucks) -- which is a small side dish of green chile sauce that may require you to pre-arrange a cemetery for yourself in Santa Fe. The chileheads with me during this transformative meal all agreed: This is one of the hottest chile sauces served anywhere in the world, and it maintains its capsicum flavor. I recommend you get it, just for its extremity. and that, if your heart is strong, you drizzle the thinnest imaginable thread of it along your sauce-topped GCCB.

Hey, listen. I'm all for those beautiful mounds of ground beef that are popping up all over Santa Fe. But my vote can't be bought by great sirloin: in a Green Chile Cheeseburger, it is the gestalt that matters. Horsemen's Haven Café just happens to dish up the most green chiles. and the most gestalt, by far.


The Green Chile Cheeseburger: Hottest Roadside Dish in the U.S.

In July 2009, practically overnight, the Green Chile Cheeseburger became a national foodie obsession in America. That's the month that Bobby Flay's macho-burger challenge to the Buckhorn Tavern in San Antonio, N.M., aired on the Food Network. Truth be told, Flay had his East Coast butt whipped by local New Mexico burger master Bobby Olguin. But the real winner was the Green Chile Cheeseburger itself, which suddenly took on nearly mythic proportions across the country as the rodeo food of the cowboy gods.

The GCCB -- actually arising in the American southwest in the 1950s, but off the national foodie radar for decades -- was born just as the American road, and as American road food, were gaining new importance. Hamburger joints everywhere were finding novel ways to lure in newly-minted motorists, and the southwest's strategy was logical. New Mexico, with its vaunted Hatch chiles, is the green chile capital of the U.S. -- so why shouldn't some enterprising café owner throw some green capsicums on a cheeseburger? No one knows who it was exactly that did it first -- but you have various GCCB historians debating Burt's Burger Bowl in Santa Fe, Bobcat Bite near Santa Fe, the original location of Blake's Lotaburger in Albuquerque, and, of course, the Buckhorn Tavern in San Antonio.

For my money, the best of them all is found at a practically unknown dive café just on the edge of Santa Fe: Horseman's Haven Café. It does not appear in national news stories, like the others I found it only by talking to local eaters, and convincing them I wasn't too snooty to love this place.

I wasn't, and I do. For me, Horseman's Haven Café avoids the "problems" that are plaguing the now ultra-famous world of the Green Chile Cheeseburger.

For one thing, the dish is kind of a marketing sensation. If you've been griddling up a cheeseburger at your diner for decades. why not hop on the buzz-driven bandwagon, drop a few capsicum slices on your bun, and become a GCCB proselyte? Little extra work, lots of extra sales. The problem is they often don't put on enough green chile to make a difference!

Others are OK on the green-chile ratio, but hand over most of the glamour to the other add-ons: tomatoes, lettuce, pickle, oozy sauces. The Buckhorn Tavern, I'm told, makes a terrific version of the "loaded" GCCB. but I like my GCs to be front and center in my GCCB.

Then you'll find the joints that put the emphasis on the burger itself -- a quality-minded practice that's hard to argue with. Except when it comes to Green Chile Cheeseburgers. The Santa Fe burger getting the greatest national press, the one at Bobcat Bite, does have its virtues. They grind the beef fresh, every day. They stack it into a thick, burly burger, which they will cook to exactly your degree of doneness -- the rare one is beautiful -- on a 50-year-old griddle that turns out a genuinely beefy-buttery taste. But here's the great pushback: If you're going to make a super-dense burger the base of your green chile cheeseburger, it makes sense that the finished product has to be even MORE cheesed and chiled! And the Bobcat bun's a little too thick, dulling the chile-cheese effect still further. Ratios are everything! I'd go back to Bobcat Bite -- the old-time setting in the middle of nowhere is priceless -- but only if I don't have chiles and cheese on my mind.

And then. there's Horseman's Haven Cafe, way the heck out of Santa Fe on Cerrillos Road, practically past the big town. It is right next to a gas station in fact, it seems part of the gas station. The diners are extremely local as are the servers, giving rise now and then to a few communication problems with Anglos like me. None of this matters. The servers are lovely the place is busy, clean, efficient, serves drinks the size of your head. and the GCCB will blow your mind.

First, you must understand that this establishment, unlike the others, is mostly a New Mexican restaurant, open every day from 8 until 8. It is a burrito-enchilada-quesadilla place, not shy or inexperienced in slinging the two chile sauces (green and red) that are at the heart of every New Mexican meal.

Did you think the slinging would stop when someone orders a Green Chile Cheeseburger? (Which, by the way, is not exactly named as such on the menu. But don't worry: Just ask for it.)

What made me swoon, initially, was the size of the damned thing on its platter -- not the burger itself, but the territory it occupies with its partners. The platter arrives with two extremely large hamburger bun halves, each open-faced, clinging to the plate for traction. Sort of centered on one of them is a beautiful griddle-browned hamburger, not very thick, glistening with the good stuff that, for the sake of the delicate, I hesitate to refer to as "grease." Spooned over the very spot where the two buns meet is an insane amount --insanely gooey -- of green chile sauce mixed with yellow blobs of cheese. Taste the sauce (because Lord knows you can't avoid it). Oh my God! This tastes like green chile!

Now take a deep breath. Clasp those two bun halves, messy as they may be, and surround your griddleburger with them. If you care about your shirt, raise them in a gingerly fashion to your ingestion unit if you don't care, just shovel that thang in your mouth. The buns are insubstantial but perfect the beef has an excellent griddle taste, though you can't rate it above the beef at the other places but the burger environment -- ah! the environment! -- is soft, wet, humid, cheesy, chile-y, a veritable hothouse of Green Chile Cheeseburgerness. You may wonder why you should eat anything else.

If there was ever a reason to put together chiles, cheese and a burger, these people have found it. The Buckhorn style may have its backyard-barbecue kind of appeal, and the Bobcat may get the beef lobby. but this place feels like New Mexico to me.

Overkill Department: If you're one of those hardcore chileheads who gets an extra charge from extra Scoville units -- once again, you have come to the right place! Yes, the basic GCCB at Horseman's Haven Café has a real good basic burn to it. But the menu offers something called Level #2 Green Chile (for two bucks) -- which is a small side dish of green chile sauce that may require you to pre-arrange a cemetery for yourself in Santa Fe. The chileheads with me during this transformative meal all agreed: This is one of the hottest chile sauces served anywhere in the world, and it maintains its capsicum flavor. I recommend you get it, just for its extremity. and that, if your heart is strong, you drizzle the thinnest imaginable thread of it along your sauce-topped GCCB.

Hey, listen. I'm all for those beautiful mounds of ground beef that are popping up all over Santa Fe. But my vote can't be bought by great sirloin: in a Green Chile Cheeseburger, it is the gestalt that matters. Horsemen's Haven Café just happens to dish up the most green chiles. and the most gestalt, by far.


The Green Chile Cheeseburger: Hottest Roadside Dish in the U.S.

In July 2009, practically overnight, the Green Chile Cheeseburger became a national foodie obsession in America. That's the month that Bobby Flay's macho-burger challenge to the Buckhorn Tavern in San Antonio, N.M., aired on the Food Network. Truth be told, Flay had his East Coast butt whipped by local New Mexico burger master Bobby Olguin. But the real winner was the Green Chile Cheeseburger itself, which suddenly took on nearly mythic proportions across the country as the rodeo food of the cowboy gods.

The GCCB -- actually arising in the American southwest in the 1950s, but off the national foodie radar for decades -- was born just as the American road, and as American road food, were gaining new importance. Hamburger joints everywhere were finding novel ways to lure in newly-minted motorists, and the southwest's strategy was logical. New Mexico, with its vaunted Hatch chiles, is the green chile capital of the U.S. -- so why shouldn't some enterprising café owner throw some green capsicums on a cheeseburger? No one knows who it was exactly that did it first -- but you have various GCCB historians debating Burt's Burger Bowl in Santa Fe, Bobcat Bite near Santa Fe, the original location of Blake's Lotaburger in Albuquerque, and, of course, the Buckhorn Tavern in San Antonio.

For my money, the best of them all is found at a practically unknown dive café just on the edge of Santa Fe: Horseman's Haven Café. It does not appear in national news stories, like the others I found it only by talking to local eaters, and convincing them I wasn't too snooty to love this place.

I wasn't, and I do. For me, Horseman's Haven Café avoids the "problems" that are plaguing the now ultra-famous world of the Green Chile Cheeseburger.

For one thing, the dish is kind of a marketing sensation. If you've been griddling up a cheeseburger at your diner for decades. why not hop on the buzz-driven bandwagon, drop a few capsicum slices on your bun, and become a GCCB proselyte? Little extra work, lots of extra sales. The problem is they often don't put on enough green chile to make a difference!

Others are OK on the green-chile ratio, but hand over most of the glamour to the other add-ons: tomatoes, lettuce, pickle, oozy sauces. The Buckhorn Tavern, I'm told, makes a terrific version of the "loaded" GCCB. but I like my GCs to be front and center in my GCCB.

Then you'll find the joints that put the emphasis on the burger itself -- a quality-minded practice that's hard to argue with. Except when it comes to Green Chile Cheeseburgers. The Santa Fe burger getting the greatest national press, the one at Bobcat Bite, does have its virtues. They grind the beef fresh, every day. They stack it into a thick, burly burger, which they will cook to exactly your degree of doneness -- the rare one is beautiful -- on a 50-year-old griddle that turns out a genuinely beefy-buttery taste. But here's the great pushback: If you're going to make a super-dense burger the base of your green chile cheeseburger, it makes sense that the finished product has to be even MORE cheesed and chiled! And the Bobcat bun's a little too thick, dulling the chile-cheese effect still further. Ratios are everything! I'd go back to Bobcat Bite -- the old-time setting in the middle of nowhere is priceless -- but only if I don't have chiles and cheese on my mind.

And then. there's Horseman's Haven Cafe, way the heck out of Santa Fe on Cerrillos Road, practically past the big town. It is right next to a gas station in fact, it seems part of the gas station. The diners are extremely local as are the servers, giving rise now and then to a few communication problems with Anglos like me. None of this matters. The servers are lovely the place is busy, clean, efficient, serves drinks the size of your head. and the GCCB will blow your mind.

First, you must understand that this establishment, unlike the others, is mostly a New Mexican restaurant, open every day from 8 until 8. It is a burrito-enchilada-quesadilla place, not shy or inexperienced in slinging the two chile sauces (green and red) that are at the heart of every New Mexican meal.

Did you think the slinging would stop when someone orders a Green Chile Cheeseburger? (Which, by the way, is not exactly named as such on the menu. But don't worry: Just ask for it.)

What made me swoon, initially, was the size of the damned thing on its platter -- not the burger itself, but the territory it occupies with its partners. The platter arrives with two extremely large hamburger bun halves, each open-faced, clinging to the plate for traction. Sort of centered on one of them is a beautiful griddle-browned hamburger, not very thick, glistening with the good stuff that, for the sake of the delicate, I hesitate to refer to as "grease." Spooned over the very spot where the two buns meet is an insane amount --insanely gooey -- of green chile sauce mixed with yellow blobs of cheese. Taste the sauce (because Lord knows you can't avoid it). Oh my God! This tastes like green chile!

Now take a deep breath. Clasp those two bun halves, messy as they may be, and surround your griddleburger with them. If you care about your shirt, raise them in a gingerly fashion to your ingestion unit if you don't care, just shovel that thang in your mouth. The buns are insubstantial but perfect the beef has an excellent griddle taste, though you can't rate it above the beef at the other places but the burger environment -- ah! the environment! -- is soft, wet, humid, cheesy, chile-y, a veritable hothouse of Green Chile Cheeseburgerness. You may wonder why you should eat anything else.

If there was ever a reason to put together chiles, cheese and a burger, these people have found it. The Buckhorn style may have its backyard-barbecue kind of appeal, and the Bobcat may get the beef lobby. but this place feels like New Mexico to me.

Overkill Department: If you're one of those hardcore chileheads who gets an extra charge from extra Scoville units -- once again, you have come to the right place! Yes, the basic GCCB at Horseman's Haven Café has a real good basic burn to it. But the menu offers something called Level #2 Green Chile (for two bucks) -- which is a small side dish of green chile sauce that may require you to pre-arrange a cemetery for yourself in Santa Fe. The chileheads with me during this transformative meal all agreed: This is one of the hottest chile sauces served anywhere in the world, and it maintains its capsicum flavor. I recommend you get it, just for its extremity. and that, if your heart is strong, you drizzle the thinnest imaginable thread of it along your sauce-topped GCCB.

Hey, listen. I'm all for those beautiful mounds of ground beef that are popping up all over Santa Fe. But my vote can't be bought by great sirloin: in a Green Chile Cheeseburger, it is the gestalt that matters. Horsemen's Haven Café just happens to dish up the most green chiles. and the most gestalt, by far.


The Green Chile Cheeseburger: Hottest Roadside Dish in the U.S.

In July 2009, practically overnight, the Green Chile Cheeseburger became a national foodie obsession in America. That's the month that Bobby Flay's macho-burger challenge to the Buckhorn Tavern in San Antonio, N.M., aired on the Food Network. Truth be told, Flay had his East Coast butt whipped by local New Mexico burger master Bobby Olguin. But the real winner was the Green Chile Cheeseburger itself, which suddenly took on nearly mythic proportions across the country as the rodeo food of the cowboy gods.

The GCCB -- actually arising in the American southwest in the 1950s, but off the national foodie radar for decades -- was born just as the American road, and as American road food, were gaining new importance. Hamburger joints everywhere were finding novel ways to lure in newly-minted motorists, and the southwest's strategy was logical. New Mexico, with its vaunted Hatch chiles, is the green chile capital of the U.S. -- so why shouldn't some enterprising café owner throw some green capsicums on a cheeseburger? No one knows who it was exactly that did it first -- but you have various GCCB historians debating Burt's Burger Bowl in Santa Fe, Bobcat Bite near Santa Fe, the original location of Blake's Lotaburger in Albuquerque, and, of course, the Buckhorn Tavern in San Antonio.

For my money, the best of them all is found at a practically unknown dive café just on the edge of Santa Fe: Horseman's Haven Café. It does not appear in national news stories, like the others I found it only by talking to local eaters, and convincing them I wasn't too snooty to love this place.

I wasn't, and I do. For me, Horseman's Haven Café avoids the "problems" that are plaguing the now ultra-famous world of the Green Chile Cheeseburger.

For one thing, the dish is kind of a marketing sensation. If you've been griddling up a cheeseburger at your diner for decades. why not hop on the buzz-driven bandwagon, drop a few capsicum slices on your bun, and become a GCCB proselyte? Little extra work, lots of extra sales. The problem is they often don't put on enough green chile to make a difference!

Others are OK on the green-chile ratio, but hand over most of the glamour to the other add-ons: tomatoes, lettuce, pickle, oozy sauces. The Buckhorn Tavern, I'm told, makes a terrific version of the "loaded" GCCB. but I like my GCs to be front and center in my GCCB.

Then you'll find the joints that put the emphasis on the burger itself -- a quality-minded practice that's hard to argue with. Except when it comes to Green Chile Cheeseburgers. The Santa Fe burger getting the greatest national press, the one at Bobcat Bite, does have its virtues. They grind the beef fresh, every day. They stack it into a thick, burly burger, which they will cook to exactly your degree of doneness -- the rare one is beautiful -- on a 50-year-old griddle that turns out a genuinely beefy-buttery taste. But here's the great pushback: If you're going to make a super-dense burger the base of your green chile cheeseburger, it makes sense that the finished product has to be even MORE cheesed and chiled! And the Bobcat bun's a little too thick, dulling the chile-cheese effect still further. Ratios are everything! I'd go back to Bobcat Bite -- the old-time setting in the middle of nowhere is priceless -- but only if I don't have chiles and cheese on my mind.

And then. there's Horseman's Haven Cafe, way the heck out of Santa Fe on Cerrillos Road, practically past the big town. It is right next to a gas station in fact, it seems part of the gas station. The diners are extremely local as are the servers, giving rise now and then to a few communication problems with Anglos like me. None of this matters. The servers are lovely the place is busy, clean, efficient, serves drinks the size of your head. and the GCCB will blow your mind.

First, you must understand that this establishment, unlike the others, is mostly a New Mexican restaurant, open every day from 8 until 8. It is a burrito-enchilada-quesadilla place, not shy or inexperienced in slinging the two chile sauces (green and red) that are at the heart of every New Mexican meal.

Did you think the slinging would stop when someone orders a Green Chile Cheeseburger? (Which, by the way, is not exactly named as such on the menu. But don't worry: Just ask for it.)

What made me swoon, initially, was the size of the damned thing on its platter -- not the burger itself, but the territory it occupies with its partners. The platter arrives with two extremely large hamburger bun halves, each open-faced, clinging to the plate for traction. Sort of centered on one of them is a beautiful griddle-browned hamburger, not very thick, glistening with the good stuff that, for the sake of the delicate, I hesitate to refer to as "grease." Spooned over the very spot where the two buns meet is an insane amount --insanely gooey -- of green chile sauce mixed with yellow blobs of cheese. Taste the sauce (because Lord knows you can't avoid it). Oh my God! This tastes like green chile!

Now take a deep breath. Clasp those two bun halves, messy as they may be, and surround your griddleburger with them. If you care about your shirt, raise them in a gingerly fashion to your ingestion unit if you don't care, just shovel that thang in your mouth. The buns are insubstantial but perfect the beef has an excellent griddle taste, though you can't rate it above the beef at the other places but the burger environment -- ah! the environment! -- is soft, wet, humid, cheesy, chile-y, a veritable hothouse of Green Chile Cheeseburgerness. You may wonder why you should eat anything else.

If there was ever a reason to put together chiles, cheese and a burger, these people have found it. The Buckhorn style may have its backyard-barbecue kind of appeal, and the Bobcat may get the beef lobby. but this place feels like New Mexico to me.

Overkill Department: If you're one of those hardcore chileheads who gets an extra charge from extra Scoville units -- once again, you have come to the right place! Yes, the basic GCCB at Horseman's Haven Café has a real good basic burn to it. But the menu offers something called Level #2 Green Chile (for two bucks) -- which is a small side dish of green chile sauce that may require you to pre-arrange a cemetery for yourself in Santa Fe. The chileheads with me during this transformative meal all agreed: This is one of the hottest chile sauces served anywhere in the world, and it maintains its capsicum flavor. I recommend you get it, just for its extremity. and that, if your heart is strong, you drizzle the thinnest imaginable thread of it along your sauce-topped GCCB.

Hey, listen. I'm all for those beautiful mounds of ground beef that are popping up all over Santa Fe. But my vote can't be bought by great sirloin: in a Green Chile Cheeseburger, it is the gestalt that matters. Horsemen's Haven Café just happens to dish up the most green chiles. and the most gestalt, by far.


The Green Chile Cheeseburger: Hottest Roadside Dish in the U.S.

In July 2009, practically overnight, the Green Chile Cheeseburger became a national foodie obsession in America. That's the month that Bobby Flay's macho-burger challenge to the Buckhorn Tavern in San Antonio, N.M., aired on the Food Network. Truth be told, Flay had his East Coast butt whipped by local New Mexico burger master Bobby Olguin. But the real winner was the Green Chile Cheeseburger itself, which suddenly took on nearly mythic proportions across the country as the rodeo food of the cowboy gods.

The GCCB -- actually arising in the American southwest in the 1950s, but off the national foodie radar for decades -- was born just as the American road, and as American road food, were gaining new importance. Hamburger joints everywhere were finding novel ways to lure in newly-minted motorists, and the southwest's strategy was logical. New Mexico, with its vaunted Hatch chiles, is the green chile capital of the U.S. -- so why shouldn't some enterprising café owner throw some green capsicums on a cheeseburger? No one knows who it was exactly that did it first -- but you have various GCCB historians debating Burt's Burger Bowl in Santa Fe, Bobcat Bite near Santa Fe, the original location of Blake's Lotaburger in Albuquerque, and, of course, the Buckhorn Tavern in San Antonio.

For my money, the best of them all is found at a practically unknown dive café just on the edge of Santa Fe: Horseman's Haven Café. It does not appear in national news stories, like the others I found it only by talking to local eaters, and convincing them I wasn't too snooty to love this place.

I wasn't, and I do. For me, Horseman's Haven Café avoids the "problems" that are plaguing the now ultra-famous world of the Green Chile Cheeseburger.

For one thing, the dish is kind of a marketing sensation. If you've been griddling up a cheeseburger at your diner for decades. why not hop on the buzz-driven bandwagon, drop a few capsicum slices on your bun, and become a GCCB proselyte? Little extra work, lots of extra sales. The problem is they often don't put on enough green chile to make a difference!

Others are OK on the green-chile ratio, but hand over most of the glamour to the other add-ons: tomatoes, lettuce, pickle, oozy sauces. The Buckhorn Tavern, I'm told, makes a terrific version of the "loaded" GCCB. but I like my GCs to be front and center in my GCCB.

Then you'll find the joints that put the emphasis on the burger itself -- a quality-minded practice that's hard to argue with. Except when it comes to Green Chile Cheeseburgers. The Santa Fe burger getting the greatest national press, the one at Bobcat Bite, does have its virtues. They grind the beef fresh, every day. They stack it into a thick, burly burger, which they will cook to exactly your degree of doneness -- the rare one is beautiful -- on a 50-year-old griddle that turns out a genuinely beefy-buttery taste. But here's the great pushback: If you're going to make a super-dense burger the base of your green chile cheeseburger, it makes sense that the finished product has to be even MORE cheesed and chiled! And the Bobcat bun's a little too thick, dulling the chile-cheese effect still further. Ratios are everything! I'd go back to Bobcat Bite -- the old-time setting in the middle of nowhere is priceless -- but only if I don't have chiles and cheese on my mind.

And then. there's Horseman's Haven Cafe, way the heck out of Santa Fe on Cerrillos Road, practically past the big town. It is right next to a gas station in fact, it seems part of the gas station. The diners are extremely local as are the servers, giving rise now and then to a few communication problems with Anglos like me. None of this matters. The servers are lovely the place is busy, clean, efficient, serves drinks the size of your head. and the GCCB will blow your mind.

First, you must understand that this establishment, unlike the others, is mostly a New Mexican restaurant, open every day from 8 until 8. It is a burrito-enchilada-quesadilla place, not shy or inexperienced in slinging the two chile sauces (green and red) that are at the heart of every New Mexican meal.

Did you think the slinging would stop when someone orders a Green Chile Cheeseburger? (Which, by the way, is not exactly named as such on the menu. But don't worry: Just ask for it.)

What made me swoon, initially, was the size of the damned thing on its platter -- not the burger itself, but the territory it occupies with its partners. The platter arrives with two extremely large hamburger bun halves, each open-faced, clinging to the plate for traction. Sort of centered on one of them is a beautiful griddle-browned hamburger, not very thick, glistening with the good stuff that, for the sake of the delicate, I hesitate to refer to as "grease." Spooned over the very spot where the two buns meet is an insane amount --insanely gooey -- of green chile sauce mixed with yellow blobs of cheese. Taste the sauce (because Lord knows you can't avoid it). Oh my God! This tastes like green chile!

Now take a deep breath. Clasp those two bun halves, messy as they may be, and surround your griddleburger with them. If you care about your shirt, raise them in a gingerly fashion to your ingestion unit if you don't care, just shovel that thang in your mouth. The buns are insubstantial but perfect the beef has an excellent griddle taste, though you can't rate it above the beef at the other places but the burger environment -- ah! the environment! -- is soft, wet, humid, cheesy, chile-y, a veritable hothouse of Green Chile Cheeseburgerness. You may wonder why you should eat anything else.

If there was ever a reason to put together chiles, cheese and a burger, these people have found it. The Buckhorn style may have its backyard-barbecue kind of appeal, and the Bobcat may get the beef lobby. but this place feels like New Mexico to me.

Overkill Department: If you're one of those hardcore chileheads who gets an extra charge from extra Scoville units -- once again, you have come to the right place! Yes, the basic GCCB at Horseman's Haven Café has a real good basic burn to it. But the menu offers something called Level #2 Green Chile (for two bucks) -- which is a small side dish of green chile sauce that may require you to pre-arrange a cemetery for yourself in Santa Fe. The chileheads with me during this transformative meal all agreed: This is one of the hottest chile sauces served anywhere in the world, and it maintains its capsicum flavor. I recommend you get it, just for its extremity. and that, if your heart is strong, you drizzle the thinnest imaginable thread of it along your sauce-topped GCCB.

Hey, listen. I'm all for those beautiful mounds of ground beef that are popping up all over Santa Fe. But my vote can't be bought by great sirloin: in a Green Chile Cheeseburger, it is the gestalt that matters. Horsemen's Haven Café just happens to dish up the most green chiles. and the most gestalt, by far.


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